Irregular wave runup on porous structures and cobble beaches
F.J. de los Santos, N. Kobayashi, L.E. Meigs, M.A. Losada
WAVES 2005 [Julio 2005]

Internacionales

Abstract:
Laboratory experiments under normally incident irregular waves were carried out to analyze the cross-shore wave evolution and horizontal velocity in the surf zone on a gently sloping impermeable beach and a 1:5 slope with a porous cobble layer of 14 cm thickness. The probability
distributions of free surface elevations, shoreline oscillations on the 1:5 slope
and horizontal cross-shore velocities have been investigated. The numerical model based on time-averaged continuity, momentum and energy equations, which has been developed originally for submerged porous breakwaters, is shown to predict fairly well the mean and standard deviation of the free surface elevation and horizontal fluid velocity on the beach and the 1:5 porous slope.